Skincare and cosmetics are likely a part of your daily routine. But how much do you understand about the purpose, mechanism, and, potentially, risks associated with your favorite products? Do you make reading cosmetic labels (not to mention food labels...) a priority? Many people who are concerned with what they consume often pay little attention to what they're body absorbs through their skin.
Studies have shown that approximately 60% (!) of the cosmetic chemicals we consume end up in our bloodstream. Furthermore, the average Western woman consumes about 5 pounds of cosmetics per year.
The purpose of this article is not fear mongering, far from it. Our objective is to help you begin to understand how to be your own advocate when deciding what chemicals you put on (and in!) your body.
We get it. Reading cosmetic labels can be fraught with confusion and frustration, especially when starting out. It also takes some practice and habit. However, knowing how to properly read, research, and understand the labels of the products you consume is important for controlling what you’re putting into you and your children’s body.
Part I: Look Beyond the Label Marketing!
It may sound obvious but often it can be easy to see two or three highlighted ingredients on the front of the packaging which are a poor representation of the ingredients with. You’ve probably seen the product before which touts all the natural ingredients they’re using on the front package only to see those ingredients listed at the bottom of the official ingredient list, usually after a long list of petroleum products you need a chemical engineering degree to pronounce.
The only standardized method for understanding your product is to read the ingredients which are conveniently listed in the order of prevalence by mass. Another helpful standardization is that all ingredients are required to use International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) names so comparing products and researching ingredients is easy.
Part II: Understanding the Ingredients on the Label and Spotting Red Flags
There are many sources for researching particular ingredients but our favorite for getting familiar with an ingredient is Skin Deep® Cosmetics Database by EWG. The free to use tool was created to fill the regulation gap in the cosmetics industry allowing consumers to be their own advocate in choosing which ingredients they’d like to allow in their home. This tool may be used to gauge the safety of many products as well as individual ingredients. If you find yourself needing more information on a particular ingredient another great resource we like to use is CosmeticsInfo.org.
Looking up each ingredient is good practice but we've compiled a list of ten of the worst offenders. Be sure to be familiar with these when vetting products.
1. Parabens
What to Look For: Methyl-, butyl-, propyl-
Potential Risks: Hormone disruptor and carcinogen
2. Phthalates
What to Look For: Phthalate
Potential Risks: Hormone disruptor
3. Polysorbates
What to Look For: Polysorbate 20/40/60/80, polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan
Potential Risks: Often contaminated with ethylene oxide and 1,4 dioxane, well known carcinogens and hormone disruptors
4. Ureas
What to Look For: Diazolidinyl urea, imidazolidinyl urea, DMDM hydantoin, sodium hydroxymethyl-glycinate
Potential Risks: Can potentially release formaldehyde
5. Fragrance
What to Look For: Fragrance, parfum
Potential Risks: “Fragrance” is a catch-all term for a brand’s proprietary formula, regulation allows brands to conceal these ingredients, frequently including phthalates, making them untrustworthy. Risks vary greatly, from benign to carcinogenic
6. Synthetic Colors:
What to Look For: Labeled “FD&C” or “D&C” followed by a color and number
Potential Risks: Produced from coal tar, carcinogen
7. Polyethylene Glycol (PEG):
What to Look For: polyethylene, polyethylene glycol, polyoxyethylene
Potential Risks: Often contaminated with 1,4-dioxane, probable carcinogen
8. Diethanolamine (DEA) family:
What to Look For: Diethanolamine (DEA), Monoethanolamine (MEA), or Triethanolamine (TEA)
Potential Risks: Carcinogen
9. Laureth family:
What to Look For: Ingredients containing laureth, myreth, oleth, ceteareth, or others ending in -eth
Potential Risks: Often contaminated with 1,4-dioxane, probable carcinogen
10. Other petroleum products:
What to Look For: Ingredients containing paraffin, mineral oil, petrolatum, petroleum jelly, benzene, butyl-, toluene, -benzene, -methane, or -ethyl-
Potential Risks: Varies, refinement contamination including 1,4-dioxane and/or polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAH), probable carcinogens, occurs frequently
It’s important to note that just because an ingredient has a complex name does not necessarily mean it’s dangerous. As an example, all botanical extracts utilize Latin names. Likewise, just because an ingredient is “natural” does not mean that it’s inherently safe. If you come across an ingredient that you’re not familiar with, please research it on either Skin Deep or CosmeticsInfo.org before use.
Part III: Evaluate the Container
In addition to the ingredients in our cosmetic products, it's also important to consider the containers they come in. Many plastic containers contain harmful chemicals that can leach into the products they hold. Bisphenol A (BPA), in addition to other bisphenols, and phthalates are two common chemicals found in plastic containers that have been linked to health problems. Opting for glass or metal containers can help reduce your exposure to these chemicals.
Just because a label claims to be BPA-free does not mean that it’s free of all bisphenols. In fact, some bisphenols have been shown to be even more toxic than BPA!
Part IV: Final Recommendations
When it comes to reading cosmetic labels and making informed decisions about the products you use, there are a few tips to keep in mind:
1. Look for products with fewer ingredients - the fewer ingredients a product has, the less likely it is to contain potentially harmful substances.
2. Choose products with natural ingredients - natural ingredients are generally safer and less likely to cause irritation or other health problems.
3. Consider switching to organic or wildly sourced products - organic products are made with ingredients that are grown without the use of synthetic pesticides and fertilizers. Wild sourced ingredients are often grown far from urban pollution.
4. Make it a habit - as you practice reading cosmetic and food labels you’ll get better acquainted with what you’re putting into your body and will begin to recognize many of the same ingredients making your job easier.
In conclusion, reading cosmetic product labels and conducting your own research is crucial for ensuring that you're using safe products - especially for products which you plan on consuming frequently. It's important to stay informed about the ingredients in your cosmetics and to consider the potential risks they may pose to your health. By making informed decisions about the products you use, you can help protect yourself and your family.